Shades

Deflecting Sun Light & Reflecting Personality

Two modern classics from Swedish designer Oscar Magnuson.

We touched upon this subject in our article on Vacation Wear, but since we will be dropping a selection of finely crafted sunglasses at Pete & Harry this Thursday, we thought it was as good a time as any to discuss this timeless accessory. The fact is, sunglasses might just be the most important accessory you will ever wear.

The How and When

Reducing this very prominent piece of eyewear to merely a tool to protect your eyes from UV rays would be a great mistake. As many men who wear spectacles daily can surely tell you—especially those with an interest in design—different shapes of glasses suit different facial structures. This is perhaps the most basic lesson you will want to learn.

Which shape are you closest to? These are, of course, somewhat exaggerated for effect but should nonetheless serve as useful guidelines.

The Round Face

An angular shape balances a rounder face well—like the Deckards from Oscar Magnuson. That said, we have yet to meet a person who doesn’t look good in these shades, as they seem to complement all facial shapes.

The Oval Face

The oval shape is the easiest to match with a variety of sizes and styles. We recommend trying out what best suits your personality, but you can never go wrong with a classic. The Aviators from Ray-Ban are an evergreen frame that finds new popularity with each generation. Originally invented in 1937 for military personnel, they skyrocketed in popularity after Tom Cruise wore them with effortless cool in Top Gun.

The Square Face

A square face is often complemented by a round frame, which helps balance its angular features. The Joy frames from Oscar Magnuson are favourites among the Pete & Harry team—not only for their classic style but also for the thickness of the frames, which adds another layer of cool.

The Rectangular Face

Like the oval shape, a rectangular face allows the wearer to experiment with different frame types. However, since the features are slightly more angular, we suggest a slightly rounded shape to create a balanced look. The timeless Lemtosh from Moscot is a classic, safe choice that exudes intellectual cool.

The Triangular Face

A triangular face works best with frames that extend slightly downward, meaning the lower part of the lenses stretches further down the face. The Kay sunglasses from Jacques Marie Mage are contemporary yet timeless in design.

The Materials

Sunglasses are one of the few accessories where processed materials are often preferable. While frames have been made from real horn, vintage tortoiseshell (illegal since the 1970s), and other natural materials, the highest quality and most low-maintenance option is acetate. This type of polymer plastic is made by processing the cellulose naturally found in trees and wood pulp.

Quality makers, like those mentioned above, may also use specialized materials. For instance, Oscar Magnuson uses bio-acetate, which is derived from wood and cotton fibers.

The lenses in high-quality glasses are typically made from proper glass or polycarbonate—a lightweight, thin, and scratch-resistant material.

When it comes to metals used in temples, hinges, and certain frames, premium manufacturers opt for higher-grade materials than those found in cheap sunglasses. While steel is common, top-tier brands often use titanium for its durability and lightweight properties.

A block of cellulose acetate—the raw material used for the frames.

The Make

There is a great level of craftsmanship involved in making high-quality sunglasses. Two countries renowned for their production standards are Italy and Japan—both of which are also famous for their expertise in tailoring.

Frames are often handcrafted from blocks of acetate that are cut and finished to their preferred shape, followed by hand-polishing, or tumbling. This meticulous process is far superior to the form-pressed frames from cheaper manufacturers. It ensures that the different parts of the glasses fit together seamlessly, resulting in a more refined look and a more durable product (for example, hinges won’t loosen as easily).

The roughly cut acetate frames before the finishing touches.

The Colours – Frames

This is, of course, a subject of its own, but here are a few colors we particularly like. These shades pair well with various outfits and can complement different complexions beautifully:

Black is always a cool choice. It suits anyone and can be worn with styles ranging from punk rock to three-piece suits.

Julian Casablancas, frontman of The Strokes, looking smashing in a pair of black-framed sunglasses.

Tortoiseshell frames are no longer made from real tortoise shell but remain a classic. The brown melange pattern works well with all shapes of glasses. Want to look intellectual? Choose a round shape. Want to channel JFK? Well, none of us will be JFK, but we can certainly take some style tips.

John F. Kennedy in a pair of tortoiseshell frames, enjoying one of his favorite pastimes—sailing.

Solid unicoloured frames are excellent for complementing your complexion. The same principles apply as when choosing clothing colours that suit your skin tone and hair colour.

Kraftwerk performing with one of their most iconic band images in solid white frames as a backdrop.

Transparent frames have been around for a long time but have gained renewed popularity over the past decade. They come in a variety of colors, though we generally suggest opting for more subdued hues. Green, blue, pink, brown, gray—anything goes, as long as you keep it classy!

Erik Mannby wearing a pair of muted taupe Joy frames from Oscar Magnuson.

The Colours – Lenses

Just as frames come in various colours, so do lenses. The choice of lens hue influences both how you perceive the world and how the world perceives you.                             

 A warmer yellow or brown hue will make the world around you look warmer.

A blue-coloured lens will make you look effortlessly cool while giving your surroundings a colder tint.

A myriad of other colours and tints exist, and the trend of tinted lenses—hugely popular in the 1970s—continues to make comebacks every so often.

King Charles wearing a pair of oversized 70s glasses with tinted lenses. This style (and, on an unrelated note, the safari shirt) could easily be worn today.

As is often the case when we delve into any given subject, this list could go on indefinitely—touching on attributes, iconic models, and legendary wearers. But we have to stop somewhere, so why not with this brilliant photo of our friend Simon Berg?

Simon wearing a pair of Deckards while sipping on a Negroni somewhere in Italy.

Leave a comment